Відео

Self-deprecating sense of humour.

To be clear, what you are hearing as a "pop" is actually just the signal being cut harshly (squarely). If you analyze the waveform, it isn't an unwanted/unexpected spike. That is just what it sounds like when a signal is cut so drastically/instantaneously. It is absolutely unavoidable when using a killswitch. It will only be audible when the signal gain is too low, leaving your sound in "clean" territory. Imagine a waveform, the wave moving up and down represents the speaker moving back and forth. Instantly cutting the signal like that means the speaker has to return to its neutral point nearly instantly. That is what makes the "popping" sound. You can hear it in the examples throughout the video. 2:07 = Very "poppy" (clean guitar sound). 2:16 = The "pop" is only audible as the signal decays and cleans up. At the end of the video, same thing. Only when the note is decaying and the signal is getting too low for the overdrive clipping does it become obvious. That's why they are really only used with higher gain overdriven sounds. Some people wire in a 2.2M resistor to help reduce the popping, but it won't eliminate it. There is a technique to using the switch. Lots of gain and lots of signal means no popping. You can't just let notes ring out while using the switch. You need to make sure there is enough signal. Hope that helps!

@@NextGenGuitars Alright, thank you for taking the time to write that one out for me. I wonder if there's a better way to do it. 🤔 I have a square wave tremolo that's really choppy but doesn't cause speaker pop, I wonder if there's a way to emulate that with a circuit in that guitar.

I think it was the Eminence Governor.

As long as your head can handle 4-ohm or 8-ohm, and is switched correctly depending on how you're using it, it's all good. 👍

@@NextGenGuitars got it. thank you. one last question. do i have to make it stereo for this splitting function to work? i don't care for stereo i just wanted to have a 2/12 cab with the ability to have it working two 1/12. would it work the same way?

@@halfend8199 If you have the ability to isolate each speaker separately, that is by definition turning it into a stereo cab. So, I'm not really sure I understand your question.

@@NextGenGuitars oh... i think my question is that i will never plug in a stereo jack, just two monos

@@halfend8199 No guitar amp outputs to a stereo/TRS speaker cable. The cables should always be mono/TS, and the jacks/wiring in this video example require only mono/TS plugs to be used for it to work properly. Any other type of plug would cause the system to route the signal incorrectly. So, yes, mono cables only.

There are many other options out there in other price ranges. We don't stock any, so I can't point you to any in particular, but they are out there.

No. 2x 8-ohm speakers makes 16 ohms in series, or 4 ohms parallel. There is no way to use 2x 8-ohm speakers, and end up with 8-ohms (unless you just didn't use both speakers together at all, in which case you'd just have one jack for each speaker, and they wouldn't be connected at all). We no longer sell the 14B jack, and would recommend the Cliff jacks as an alternative for complex wiring schemes.

@@NextGenGuitars So I should be able to wire the two 8ohm speakers in series for mono at 16 ohms and still have 8 ohms stereo.

It's a tiny analog practice amp. Set expectations accordingly. 👍

That could be related to the battery power. Did you connect the lugs to tip and sleeve, or tip and ground, or something else?

@@NextGenGuitars ground…Is there much difference in putting the black killswitch wire on the ground or attached to the sleeve?

@@SimoGarby The sleeve terminal of the jack is the ground. I asked how you wired it because if you are inadvertently disconnecting the battery power each time you hit the switch, that would cause an extremely loud pop every time. Some people connect the wrong leads (avoid the "ring", and/or anything connected to the battery).

Lol. What? Nothing is faked in this video. I still have the modded Katana amp at home. Still works. 🤷‍♂️

You just do the exact same thing as in the video, but with pairs of 8-ohm speakers in series instead of single 16-ohm speakers. Same result... Either jack used individually would be all 4 speakers, for an 8-ohm load. Both jacks used at the same time would separate the two jacks, each having their own 16-ohm load.

@@NextGenGuitars So I'd put two speakers in series on each jack but have each pair ran in parrallel?

@@TheJwarnock You would copy the wiring diagram in this video exactly. The only difference is that instead of 2x 16-ohm speakers, you would have 2x series pairs of 8-ohm speakers. The top speaker in the diagram would be replaced by a pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. The bottom speaker in the diagram would be replaced by another pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. You end up with two 16-ohm loads, thus the same results as the video.

@@NextGenGuitars Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

That's always a battle of compromises... A larger gauge main conductor with no shielding allows for the greatest fidelity, at the expense of a high noise floor and more interference from the lack of shielding. The more shielding you add to reduce the noise floor and decrease interference, the thicker/heavier and more cumbersome the cable becomes, and the greater the capacitance of the cable. Braided shielding is stronger and more durable, but provides a little less shielding (for the same amount of wire used) and increases capacitance more. Spiral shielding improves on those weaknesses, but sacrifices a bit of durability. Increased capacitance leads to greater high frequency loss over long cable lengths. For these reasons (among many others, this is just a short discussion), there is no "perfect" cable. There is just the "right" cable for your needs. Most guitar cable is around 40-50pF/foot with around 90-95% shielding, which is great for most guitar players. If you've got long cable runs and a complex pedalboard, you may want lower capacitance cable to retain more high end across the total cable length. You could also just use a buffer, but that opens up another long discussion. Suffice to say, it's complicated. lol Lot's of choices, and no "right" answers. The fact is, most industry guitar cable is just fine. The difference that separates them is the quality of the connectors and solder joints.

That's why it's always best to find local sources. Or, bundle larger orders to get the best value out of the shipping costs. If shipping costs $15, that's because it costs $15. That's not "theft". Get mad at shipping carriers/couriers if you think it's too expensive. Don't throw around crude/inaccurate accusations of "theft". Point your disappointment in the right direction. All the best! 👍

It's all SMD circuit board stuff. It could be modded, but certainly not easily.

It is not a top or bottom down view. The switching mechanism in the drawing tells you which lugs are which. Focus on that.

For my money, cheapest cap wins. In a controlled setting, there might be a minuscule difference, but not a "this is objectively better" kind of difference. It would be unnoticeable to me (and probably most people) in live setting. And, as you eluded to, whatever small difference there is, it's entirely subjective which is "better".

@@NextGenGuitars Hard to beat Mallory 150s and especially factoring in the price. Sozo's do look prettier so some folks may want to pay 3x more.

Haha, sweet! 👍

Definitely! It was stupid to do it that way! No doubt!! 👍

Lol, 3 years later, now I'm also wondering what sucked. 🤣

Yes. If you wire the output from the pickup (or pickup selector) straight to the jack (bypassing or removing the volume pot), you will not be able to turn down your volume.

The speaker it came with was 4 ohms.

That is correct. If using both jacks at the same time, each individual speaker has its own signal path completely separate from the other (and the other jack). So, you could run two amps into the same cab. Each amp would only be connected to one speaker, separately from each other.

@@NextGenGuitars Perfect! Thanks 👍

There could be lots of reasons why that happens. Oxidized soldering tip, dry or oxidized parts, not enough heat, not enough heat transfer, and/or poor technique. If solder isn't sticking, first thing to check is the temperatures and condition of the iron. Is it getting to and maintaining at least 350C (~650F)? Is the tip clean and tinned? Are the parts being soldered clean and free of oxidation? Once those are confirmed, you can troubleshoot the technique. The parts need to be hot enough for the solder to flow onto them and stick, which means focusing on heating the parts you want the solder to bond to. Using flux helps to clean the parts being joined and increases solder flow. Lots to investigate and diagnose. Best of luck to you!

@@NextGenGuitars it must either be a temperature thing or an experience thing. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong because I will melt the solder onto the little metal tongue pieces where the wires make contact and it just won't stick at all, I'm wondering if there's a specific type of wire I'm supposed to use for this that's rated for steel and I don't have it, my soldering iron and solder itself are used and do not have any packaging so I'm not sure how to check but I get a small dab of solder exactly where the video says its supposed to go and the way I do the process looks exactly like the way you do it but where yours sticks mine just falls off and I'm left with random little chuncks of loose solder. Not sure what the problem is exactly but Ive cleaned everything and made dozens of attempts and at this point I've made no progress at all. Even when I try to get the solder to form around the hole so it's kind of pinched to the metal tongue looking piece, it still miraculously just slides right off and I am at a complete loss

@@andacondasqueeze159 Sounds like you're not getting enough heat transfer onto the lugs you want the solder to bond to. It could be your iron doesn't get hot enough, or maintain heat well enough. Adding tinning flux to the areas you want the solder to bond to might help. Using eutectic solder (if you're in a country that allows for leaded solder) would also help. But, if it doesn't, you really need to look at getting a new soldering iron. Preferably something with a digitally controlled temperature setting.

@@NextGenGuitars I considered this as a possibility, I'll see about getting a new iron. Thank you for the advice by the way!

Agreed. As mentioned in the description, that's what we did. Notice the cut away at 2:20? I realized I forgot to tin everything, so I reset and did that. Sadly, forgot to turn the camera back on and film that part. Didn't turn the camera back on until it was already done. What you actually see after the cut at 2:20 is me pretending to finish the joint for the camera.🤦‍♂

Ok! Got it and makes sense. Thank you for a clear vid.

@@rickschiller It would be way better if we actually planned everything and filmed it all. 🤣